Rebolting Efforts in the Red River Gorge

Who is raising money?

My name is Erik Kloeker. I'm a climbing guide and resident in Red River Gorge. Over the last decade, I've been an obsessive fixed gear hardware steward in the region. I'm starting this fundraiser because I've had countless people ask how they can support the cause of bolt and anchor replacement in the RRG I wanted a centralized place and a stated cause for people to direct their donations. My purpose is to lessen the financial burden on stewards doing this work by engaging our community so that we can all climb on better hardware. (Scroll to the bottom to see what your donation will be used for.)

The Problem:

Since the 1990s and earlier, plated steel bolts have been used for route development throughout the Red River Gorge region. Though most of these bolts were safe when first placed, plated hardware is prone to corrosion over time, a problem exacerbated by the often damp and humid environment within the RRG. In addition, these types of bolts can loosen with time and use, creating spinners and requiring additional maintenance. We're reaching a time that thousands of aging bolts will need to be replaced in the region over the next decade and support is needed for those performing the work.

The Solution:

To support current and future stewards with quality tools, hardware, and training, so that they can continue to do amazing work keeping our fixed gear safe for future generations.

We will support exclusively using high-quality Stainless Steel Glue-Ins, Stainless Steel Anchor Hardware, and Climb Tech Mussy Hooks for bolt and anchor replacement to provide a long-term solution to the problem of aging or worn bolts and anchors.

More Background:

With no formal organization taking on the immense task of maintaining and refurbishing the 3000+ routes in the Red River Gorge Region, people are often left to wonder how shiny new Stainless Steel Glue-Ins appear in place of rusty and corroded 1990's era bolts. Despite mystical bolt fairies often being credited, the true answer is a bit less magical. A loose band of individuals, primarily less than a dozen depraved do-gooders have been chipping away at their own expense in tools and labor, at the looming problem over the past decade-plus. During the last decade rebolters have been supplied with hardware for rebolting and maintenance by the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative, who continues to support these efforts.

Reusing Holes:

Currently, only a small percentage of routes being updated are having bolt holes reused. The process can be more difficult and slower than simply drilling new holes, but preserves the original nature and clipping stances of the route, as well as being more aesthetically pleasing in the long run. Though it isn't always feasible to reuse every hole, I'd like to empower the individuals doing this work with the correct tools and knowledge to have reusing holes be an option.

Current Supporters of Rebolting Efforts in RRG:

Developers in RRG are currently receiving the amazing support of the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) and RRG FGI (The Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative) your donations to those organizations are much appreciated, these organizations are doing great things. ASCA has graciously supported rebolting in RRG with SS Glue-In Bolts, Quicklinks, and Mussy Hooks and we hope to continue our relationship with them in the future.

RRG FGI, through community donations, supports subsidized SS bolts for developers bolting new routes, as well as contining to be a long-time supporter of rebolting efforts in the area, providing bolts, glue, lower offs, and other hardware. rrgfgi.com

At this time the primary LCO is the RRG region the RRGCC (Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition) is not involved in rebolting efforts and route maintenance.

So why the need for an additional fundraiser?

The ASCA is a national organization with 100's of LCOs vying for limited resources, donating to this fundraiser will ensure your funds are used directly for work in the RRG. In addition, these organizations do not provide the specialized tools, or cover associated costs beyond hardware that rebolting work incurs, the burden of which has historically fallen on individual developers.

What will the money be used for:

100% of the money raised will go directly towards rebolting efforts in the RRG. The first $1500 will be used for purchasing 2 sets of tools which will be accessible to developers doing rebolting work in the RRG area.

Money raised over $1500 will be used to purchase epoxy, drill bits, Stainless Steel Chain and Quicklinks, as well as other consumable items needed by rebolters.

Where should I report a bad bolt or anchor if I come across one?

Through our partners at Bad Bolts, https://badbolts.com/areas/red-river-gorge

Thanks for your contribution to bomber hardware in the region and happy climbing!