Gunks Anchor Fund
$7,715 of $7,200 goal
Paul, the Mohonk Preserve has been assisting greatly with the use of their land, equipment, lots of manpower via MP Rangers and staff, and a commitment to best practices going forward. What we're doing here is unprecedented in this country. Through the efforts of MP, GCC, Petzl, ASCA and numerous committed volunteers, we're attempting to create a bolting standard that has yet to exist in America. Creating this standard is not our mission, though we do hope it catches on. This has everything to do with MP policies and standards (some of which we are defining as we continue). Towards this goal, 8 of us(4 volunteers and 4 MP rangers) took a 2 day bolting certification class with Petzl involving best practices of placing and removing bolts. As far as high costs of visiting the Mohonk Preserve, I'm not sure what you mean. It costs around a $100 for a yearly pass for one person (less per person if buying family passes). Considering what they provide in land management and a highly trained and skilled ranger staff for high angle rescues, I'd call that cheap. It costs more to have a membership at a climbing gym for a two month period than an annual all access MP pass. If you're a climber (or care about one), please consider donating whatever you can to assist us. We have completed much, yet there is so much more to do as we replace all existing anchors w all stainless steel components going forward. Thank you!
Hello - may I ask to what extent the Mohonk Preserve is contributing to this cost of bolt replacement? Many of my friends are sensitive to the high fees just imposed just to access the gunks.
Hey Brian, We are struggling with these issues and are trying to find a balance. Each situation is unique and we are not trying to create top-rope anchors. The anchors you pointed out are each interesting examples with their own problems, though Sente does not have a bolted anchor, just protection bolts. If you would like to add your perspective join the GCC, details about meetings can be found on the GCC website or the FB page.
Brian Phillips it sounds like you should join the GCC
The problem with all these fixed anchors is many become convenient top-rope anchors where groups of people hang ropes on classic lead climbs and spend the day there. For example, the Son of Easy O, Snooky's, Sente, and Ant's Line are top-roped constantly on weekends. If people had to build an anchor that would cut down the top-roping significantly because many of the gym climbers who top-rope don't know how to build and anchor, or the anchor would fail and Darwin's law would eliminate those who hog classic trad routes. So the anchors on classic routes should be eliminated and separate rappel lines away from the routes should be substituted as they should have done in the first place.