Bay Area bolting fund

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$4,220 raised of $5K

Bay Area bolting fund

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Hi Bay Area climbers! Thanks so much for the donations last year! I used the $$ to purchase 70 Titanium Wedge bolts and over 100 316L wedge bolts (for non-coastal routes). I also replaced a drill, got extra batteries, and bought 2 static lines. After placing about 40 Ti bolts (and giving another 25 to fellow Bay Area route developers), I'm down to just a few. The new routes will be in the next edition of Bay Area Rock.

In addition to bolting new routes, Kim and I remain committed to replacing old and unsafe bolts in and around the Bay. Recently, we've replaced missing and loose bolts at Table Scraps and Table Rock on Mt. St. Helena. Over the summer and fall, we made 4 trips, replacing a total of 18 bolts so far.

Over the years, I've replaced about 750 local bolts, and about the same number of new bolts. I use 316 grade 6” or 8” twist-leg glue-in bolts for local soft sandstone, and I use Titanium wedge or glue-in bolts for coastal areas. For the replacement bolts, I get nearly all of the material from The ASCA.

Kim and I are currently committed to adding more well-bolted moderate (5.6-5.11) routes to the area. If you've climbed at Kim's Gym, Vent 5, or The Wanna Get Away Crag, you'll have an idea about the types of routes we are developing.

After shipping, PayPal fees, and custom fees, the wedge bolts + hangers cost about $21 each. The glue-in bolts cost a bit less, but with the added cost of glue (about $25/tube—enough for about 7 bolts). Other expenses include titanium lower-off hardware ($40-60 per route), static ropes, brushes, drill bits, power tools, glue guns (these break with disturbing regularity), as well as gas to and from the crag.

Factoring in all the above expenses, the average titanium route with a two-bolt anchor + LO hardware costs us around $220 for a 6-bolt route and anchor, and over $400 for a 12-bolt route and anchor.

I've always derived great satisfaction from contributing new routes and hardware, but with guidebook sales waning, this community-funded idea seems like the best way forward to offset costs I can no longer afford.

Please consider donating if you can!

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Organizer

Jim Thornburg
Organizer
El Cerrito, CA
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