RRG FGI: The Choss is Boss - Support new routes in Cave Fork

With the purchase of the Ashland Property and creation of the Cave Fork Recreational Preserve, RRG FGI has been faced with unprecedented demand for high-quality hardware for new routes within the preserve. RRG FGI is doing our best to keep up with demand by providing high-quality stainless steel bolts, anchor hardware, mussy hooks, and steel perma-draws to ensure the hardware going in our beloved Corbin Sandstone will last for decades. We have already depleted our fund from our Annual Valentine's Day fundraiser, having purchased and distributed over 1,000 bolts and accompanying hardware. That's approximately 100 new routes going up with high-quality hardware that will be free and open to the public in the coming months and years.

Despite the large amount of hardware already purchased and distributed, we expect to provide developers with hardware for several hundred more routes. This is where you come in! If you want more routes and less waiting time for new crags to open, we could use your help. Donate to help sponsor a brand new route, anchor, or bolt at the new Cave Fork Recreational Preserve.

ABOUT THE RRG FIXED GEAR INITIATIVE

The Red River Gorge is a world-class sport climbing destination. Development has been occurring at an exponential pace over the past two decades with well over 3,000 routes now. However, the majority of routes have been developed using zinc-plated hardware. Unfortunately, due to the humid conditions and soft, mineral-rich Corbin sandstone, many of these bolts are corroding and are in need of replacement. Due to the large volume of aging sport climbs and the very few that choose to help, it is an ever-growing struggle to keep pace with the needs for re-bolting. With vast potential for even more development, it is critical that the cycle of new development with suboptimal materials followed by frequent re-bolting be immediately stopped.

Stainless steel glue-ins are commonly being used at many other crags across the United States now as a more sustainable option for new development. But due to the steep nature that encompasses much of the Red, developing with stainless steel glue-ins isn't always practical for new development. The alternative to glue-ins is to use a stainless steel mechanical bolt. However, the cost of these bolts is prohibitively expensive for developers as they can cost upward of five times as much as their zinc-plated counterpart.

The Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRG FGI) was created to facilitate a partnership between developers, climbers, industry, and non-profits to promote sustainable fixed gear solutions for rock climbing in the Red River Gorge for the preservation of the rock and the long-term benefit of the community.

100% of your donation is used for improvement and maintenance of fixed gear in the Red.

The fundraising efforts of the RRG FGI can be broken down into 3 separate categories.

1.) Community Subsidized Stainless Steel Fixed Gear for New Development

Community donations are pooled with developers' contributions to purchase stainless steel bolts. We offer both stainless steel expansion bolts and glue-ins to developers at a reduced price that allows continued development with more sustainable materials. From November 2013 to the present, over 8,500 stainless steel subsidized bolts have been purchased and distributed to developers. All bolts are placed at crags that have, or are expected to have, public access, and routes will follow a normal grade distribution that is common of the Red.

2.) Community Funded Stainless Steel Fixed Gear for Re-bolting

Much of the zinc-plated fixed gear in the Red River Gorge is well past its first decade of use and is showing its age. A group of a few dedicated developers have been willing to donate their time and effort to the critical enterprise of re-bolting routes. Until this year, the majority of the costs were the burden of those who chose to help out. RRG FGI is proud to fundraise directly for bad bolt replacement and has supported the Re-bolt the Red Event since 2015. Each year, developers partner with community volunteers to form teams, allowing hundreds of bolts to be replaced at different crags in one day. Our re-bolting efforts are ongoing throughout the year. You can stay up-to-date on events and re-bolting days by joining the Facebook group RRG Rebolting.

3.) Permadraws

Permadraws are also considered to be fixed gear in the Red. It is understandable that people have differing opinions as to how and if these should be used in the Red River Gorge. However, history has shown that dangerously sharp aluminum carabiners will pop up in the absence of permadraws. It is also important to recognize that permadraws are also anything but permanent, and they too will wear, albeit about ten times slower than their aluminum counterpart. It is also understood that not every climber benefits from the existence of permadraws. Due to this, we will keep funding for permadraws completely separate from the general Fixed Gear Fund. Specific campaigns will solicit for permadraw funding and will be supported to the extent that the community chooses. This gear will be placed as sparingly as possible, on a case-by-case basis.